Camp Janet Santa Fe Nat Forest

Sleeping. I read a book about a guy who, back in 1922, rode a motorcycle across the United States. Back then most of the roads were nothing but cow paths and he was able to stop and sleep just about anywhere he wanted. That is not case today but I did sleep in many places. On top of picnic tables in rest stops- waking up to the smell of diesel exhaust from the idling tractor-trailers. I was never bothered by authorities or strangers, but in Florida the rest stop security persons asked me to keep my motorcycle out of sight. I guess they thought a visible motorcycle would make some tourists uncomfortable.

I slept on a park bench next to the USS Midway in San Diego-kind of. Damn difficult sleeping vertical but park benches now have a divider prohibiting someone from getting horizontal. I really just nodded off so that I could answer to any police officer that might question me that I was ‘just enjoying the night air.’ Of course that line probably would not have worked, but since I was close to broke and planning on only a couple of days in San Diego, until some cash came through, it would have to do. Tried sleeping in Balboa Park during the day but Ariel would chase other dogs when they came by, and with her being tied to my beltloops, damn near took my pants with her. At one time the leash got wrapped around my neck and I got strangled and had difficulty reeling her back in so I could restore my air supply. For just mere 13 pounds she has a lot of traction.

We cuddled up under a sleeping bag against the motorcycle when we broke down in the middle of Texas at 0130 hours.

We slept in National Forests in Florida and Santa Fe, New Mexico. Texas state parks. Also, along the Natchez Trace Parkway, which was free and very beautiful, with the only drawback being the damn ticks that grabbed hold and fought to stay attached. Flea, tick, and insect repellants didn’t help much.

We stayed at a couple of Motel 6s when we needed a shower or just had to get off the road into a comfortable bed and airconditioning. They are advertised to be cheaper than any other national chain, but I don’t think by much.

Probably, by far, the most dodgy places we ever stayed were the motels owned and operated by Indians. Not native-American Indians, but Indians from India. I don’t know why but the places were dumps. I stayed in three different establishments and they all had the same things in common. No shades on the lamps and ceiling fixtures; curtains and bedspreads with holes and cigarette burns; televisions with only one color-green; and sheets too small for the bed. Forget about getting your room cleaned or an extra towel. And I can say that only the ticks of Mississippi were more vicious than the bed bugs of the Indian motels. But at least in Mississippi we were camping and could accept the ticks as part of the outdoor experience.

P.S. I named all my campsites after friends and acquaintances.

Waiting for the rain to clear

I thought I would discuss some of the difficulties I encountered on the road.

Riding a Sporty and carrying a dog means little room left for luggage and supplies. Discomfort and difficulty arises from this limited space. The T Bag carrier attached to the sissy bar takes up a lot of space, but it’s a sacrifice I’m happy to make to have my best girlfriend with me. On the other side of the sissy bar is strapped the tent, sleeping bag, leather vest, and Ariel’s two favorite toys; her teddy bear and Jessie (Toy Story) doll. Under all this sits Kuryakyn throw over saddle bags which hold less than I had hoped for when I bought them on-line. One zipper broke before we even got on the road and another separated at the seams. They would probably make good weekend bags as long as you underpack, but I will have to find another, more durable, option when the time comes to venture out on the road again.

I only had two pairs of jeans and they got dirty, sweaty, and nasty real fast in the hot, triple-digit weather. I wore a pair until they became saturated with sweat and I couldn’t stand them any longer. I would then change into the dry pair doing that back and forth, taking one pair off long enough to dry out before swapping again. Sometimes this would occur many times a day. I think next time I will ride in cooler weather.

Needed more space for food and MORE WATER. Fewer trips into town=more gas money for going further down the road. There was always enough water available where we camped, but while on the road we could of used more. Keep enough food and water on hand for a couple of days, particulary while on back roads of the southwest. Better safe than sorry. Stay hydrated and keep the caloric intake up. I differently felt muddled, and legs cramping, on a few occasions which I think was due to not enough liquids and food. But in hindsight take enough water and food on the road in case of a breakdown. You don’t know how long it will take for someone to drive by and offer help. Some people may not even stop and you may be out of cell phone reach.
Next time take a netbook or other computing device smaller than my current laptop which is heavy and bulky.

Long sleeve shirts/jackets are cooler than short sleeves.

Watching after Ariel was a bit of a problem in some places. Most public buildings do not welcome dogs so I was restricted as well since I couldn’t leave baby out in the sun. I was also afraid of leaving her tied up in the shade unattended. We just dealt with it but next time I will have to come up with a solution to this problem. It was mostly at grocery stores, libraries, and wifi spots.

So I will just have to pack smarter, buy smaller accessories, and ride during cooler weather. Or get that sidecar I keep drooling over.

Travelling through the mountain pass after dark was difficult. The black rock walls on both sides of the interstate intimidated me when the strong gusts of wind blew me near the margins and nearly pushing the bike out from under me. The unknown road and the colder temperatures of the higher elevation tested my nerves and increased my fatigue. So I decreased my speed to 50 mph, and even though I wanted to go slower I dared not. Cars piloted by drivers who knew the road came up behind me and then passed me on the left. Afraid my single little tail light would not enough for some driver to see in time to avoid rear ending me, I fell in behind the next tractor-trailer doing about 25 mph with his flashers going. I turned on my flashers and allowed him to escort me to the peak. At the crest he picked up speed and left me behind to solo the downward portion into San Diego. I left my flashers on and picked my speed up to 50 mph even though I still struggled against the strong wind gusts.

I passed through El Cajon after midnight. I was told there was a casino named the Golden Acorn where truckers could park and I would be able to find a comfortable chair or sofa to grab some rest after the cold climb to 4000 ft. I didn’t bother to set my GPS thinking I would be able to see a large sign from the highway. I missed it and ended up riding into San Diego.

I stopped and bought coffee at a 7-11 in downtown San Diego and sat outside drinking it while Ariel warmed up inside my jacket. I didn’t remember S.D. being so cold in June, but then it had been thirty years since I last experienced that month in southern California. I proceeded to Broadway to the Inn at the Army Navy YMCA (name only-no affiliation with Army-Navy), which at one time was a cheap dormitory, but it wasn’t cheap anymore so I decided not to spend the money for the few remaining hours of the morning. Instead I asked the security guard where I could sit out and nod off until daylight without being hassled. He directed me to a parking lot on N Harbor Drive waterfront where the fishing boats sat quietly in the still water and the museum ship USS Midway was tied up on the right of the parking lot.

So Ariel and I leaned up against the kickstand side of the warm Harley and cuddled up under the sleeping bag. About 0530 Ariel began barking and I woke to see a man standing about five feet from us staring at the bundle we were. “Is there a problem,” I asked. “No,” he responded and he left. We sat there for another hour and then rolled up the bag and went to breakfast.

I ride for six hours or so and then look for a rest stop where Ariel and I sleep for the remainder of the night if I think getting to the next stop will exceed my fatigue tolerance.

One evening, about 0130, we pulled into a rest stop, and a voice from under a picnic pavilion asked me if I would like a cup of coffee. I accepted the invitation and introduced myself.

‘Bennett,’ extending my hand.
‘Stillman, glad to meet you.’

Stillman had a Jetboil camping stove, and a hand coffee grinder. I soon had a cup and when his cup was ready he offered me a cigar . We sat in the rest area smoking cigars and drinking fresh ground, fresh brewed, hazelnut coffee.

We talked about ex-spouses, ex in-laws. Places we’ve been and work we’ve done. When I mentioned that I had spent a number of years working in Anti-submarine warfare designing sonobuoys he perked up and said his son was somehow connected with them and he knew exactly what I was talking about.

Then the conversation trailed off. We found our commonalities, and still being strangers, didn’t feel the need to take it further.

We sat finishing our cigars and coffee saying nothing else except to point out another one of the dozen or so jack-rabbits hopping through the area.

After our shampoo I asked if there was a park in the area where I could nap in the shade during the hot part of the day before getting back on the road.

She offered to walk me over and show me the park where I could hang out for a few hours. She went into the house and I could hear her argue with her father in Spanish. Of course I didn’t understand a word so I asked if everything was okay and she said yes.

After walking a couple of blocks she wanted to borrow my sunglasses saying that she was being stalked.

“Really, how long has this been going on?’
“Oh since the Air Force did mind control experiments on me.’
‘Mind control.’ I asked
‘Yes and even though I’m no longer in the service they still control my thoughts from air planes and ships.

I turned us around and got back to her house asap. ‘Ariel let’s get the hell out of here,’ I said. We got back on the highway and headed for San Diego.

PICTURES

So from Santa Fe I travelled south on state 14 which ran through Madrid, New Mexico where the movie Wild Hogs was filmed. Road 14 is scenic and is well ridden and driven for that reason and thus Madrid is a good spot to stop for refreshments. This is a popular route for motorcycle tours that ride Route 66 from Chicago to Los Angeles. It’s a tourist attraction since I don’t think there is any industry in the area that would support the inhabitants. I stayed for about an hour while I drank an ice coffee.

Hooked back up with I-40W and that night sometime close to mid-night I stopped for gas near Flagstaff. Paramedics were at the gas station performing cpr on a person. I’m certified in CPR and the use of a AED but I have never actually done it or seen it done on a real human. So I stayed and watched as they defibbed the person twice and then had to continue CPR into the ambulance and on to the hospital.

I then left and about an hour later stopped at a rest stop and slept the remainder of the night on top of a picnic table. I was warned not to sleep on the ground or I might wake up next to a rattlesnake.

In the mornings I would take Ariel to the nearest McDs and tie her to one of the outside benches with shade while I had my coffee and did my internet connection. I would buy a couple of sausage biscuits. I gave Ariel the sausage patties and I would eat the biscuits with some strawberry jelly.

As I sat I listened to a group of men, about my age, middle to late 50′s, complaining about the difficulties of finding a job. There was also a comment made that, in that particular area, ‘don’t bother applying if you are American,’ which I take to mean ‘white,’ which in that area only Native Americans and Mexicans need apply. Two men spoke of their difficulties in trying to file a claim for disability and they also felt betrayed by the Country in that the selection process for who disability, they thought, had been skewed against their age group and race. I can understand the frustrations these men have as I have them too. I can see where the recruits for the Tea Party come from. You work all your life, your part of the system, and then the system spits you out. Life in America.

Side note. I was talking to a guy outside a gas station. We were speaking of how much road construction was going on across the country and that I didn’t understand how we got this much population. He told me that the US has an open gate and that immigrants, from everywhere, don’t have to pay taxes for seven years. He was agitated about this.

I can’t help but think that we are giving this country away. I don’t know how a country can keep itself together when it lacks an adhesive among its population. Eventually it will end up being one ethnic population against another. I think ethnicity trumps citizenship. Eventually things will get worse and the country will fragment. It’s getting there I’m afraid.

Just then a sheriff’s deputy drove by and I thought for sure he would return. I mean someone on a motorcycle setting in a closed gas station at midnight-I would. He did and ran my DL. It’s good to know that, at least for now, I have no wants or warrants. He didn’t hassle me and we spoke for about twenty minutes.

Ariel and I wrapped ourselves up in the sleeping bag and set up all night until the station opened and we could get a coffee and roll. Then called the towing company who picked us up and took us into Kerrville where we had to get a room since the Harley dealer in Boerne wasn’t open until Monday. So Monday the tow truck returns and reloads Ramone. Off we go; the driver, me, and Ariel riding in the cab, Ramone strapped to the trailer.

So we get to the Harley dealer and Ramone gets his rear wheel removed and sure enough the inside is all chewed up. Guess what–$639 bill for replacing the rear wheel. Didn’t count on that. I bought Ramone brand new less than three years ago and I find it unacceptable that a mechanical failure of this sort should occur. The parts also had to be overnighted which meant another motel room, but at least this time the dealer put me up in a Marriott (really nice). Ariel told me that it was about time she got a decent room more befitting her style and grace. So anyway I have to figure out where to get the funds.

Hopefully tomorrow we will be back on the road.

But it is still fun and I’m enjoying myself. Yesterday we stopped at a Sonic and a man gave me $20. for gas. Later in the day we camped at Lake Arrowhead in Texas and Ariel was able to go swimming which is her favorite thing to do. Our neighbors came riding up on their Harley when they saw us pull in and told me that their family had just had their family reunion. Mom rode in. The aunts and uncles, nieces and nephews, and a grandparent rode in. I guess the whole family rides.

Today I was able to do another thing I’ve wanted to do and that is ride a portion of Route 66. We got off I-40 at Vega, Texas and then rode up to Adrian, Texas which is the midway point between Chicago and Los Angeles, stopping at the Midpoint Cafe and Gift Shop for some postcards. Then had to get back on the interstate because RT 66 was closed beyond that point. We then picked up RT 66 again at Tucumcari, New Mexico which has just delighted me. I found a cheap motel, about as inexpensive as a campsite, that has internet which I’m using for this post. The man who runs the place has a horse named Midnight which he keeps out back. I was able to feed and pet Midnight.

Most of the motels and restaurants are closed and boarded up as depicted in the Pixar movie ‘Cars.’ The interstate moves on by. Everyone wants to get somewhere fast. Not me anymore.

Route 66

Pictures